The V-333 is available for around $140 from PF (another model, the V-200, is around $129 from Artcraft). Prefer to use it when its precision of 0.1g will not significantly affect theįormula or when measuring quantities over 10.0g. It can measure up toģ00g with a realtime digital display and has an accuracy of +/- 0.1g. The Acculab V-333 is a popular, modestedly-priced scale. precision required for the chemical being weighed. Which one I use depends on the quantity vs.
To pharmacy scales costing $3,000+ and precision laboratory instruments that are exceeding expensive.Īt present I own two scales, an Acculab V-333 and a DRX-2 Prescriptionīalance. You will require various sizes of graduates for measuring the liquids, a 1.5mlĮyedropper (from PF) for conveniently measuring the Triethanolamine, and a L a b E q u i p m e n t / S u p p l i e s Tinopal SFP is an optical brightening agent that can be used in RA-4, but I'm currently trying to track down a source for it. I've recently seen a replacement stabilizer from Unicolor consisting of Hexamine costing $10.00 for List because it is an easy and effective means of cleaning the sludge thatįormaldehyde may be difficult to obtain in your area. The Sulfuric Acid is not used in any formula, but is included in the chemical The price listed here is derived from their 1 quart size and adjusted to reflect the equivalent of 454 grams of dry chemical. * Artcraft Chemicals sells its Iron EDTA in liquid form as a 47% solution.
Quantites were chosen arbitrarily as a compromise between economy and price, with better savings coming in progressively larger quantities. Where a price is not given, it means that company doesn't sell Other vendors out there, and you likely will find even better pricing if you shop around. Let's begin with a summary of the chemicals involved, and their current pricing from both Photographer's Formulary and Artcraft Chemicals. I've used both, and they have given me consistently good results. In this post I'm documenting a couple of formulas for C-41 and RA-4 that haveīeen requested on the ng. The following informations have been retrieved from the web and particularlyĪn excellent post by William Laut on dated August, 27th 1999. In the near future I want to buy som kind of a cheap temperature control device and obviously destilled water and suringe or something to measure the exact mililiters of the photo phlo I'm putting in or just buy the adox one which I've heard fixed the same issue for other people.Back to C-41 page Home-made C-41 & RA-4 Chemicals Then I was continuously getting weird streaks on dryed film but that was definitely my error and using too much photo phlo, but I haven't figured thst part yet.
#C 41 DEVELOPING KIT PRO#
Once I got a completely perfect negative, but the next one had weird colour shift in 3 or 4 frames just there in the middle of the roll the next one completely okay and the next one had such a strong grain and weird grain structure like I have never seen on a Fuji pro 400h film. Since then I have developed 11 rolls and haven't changed anything accept adding some time in the developer in the last few rolls and the results were so inconsistent. First 2 or 3 rolls I was changing stuff to tune in my whole process so I would change the measuring of the temperature after the first one because it had weird colour shifts because I didn't do it right, then I tried different heating method (in the kitchen heating up the same water, not having a continuos stream like in the bath tub), then different inversion cycles and adding a water stopbath to not contaminste my blix and make it last longer and finally after my 3rd roll I got good results so I thought I figured it out. Btw any bleach and fix would be good right? Even the ones used for bw chemistry that I have at home? I couldn't find any separate color developer, just the ones in the kit, I don't understand why if they are all the same. Thank you so much I will definitely look into them.
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